Nov 20, 2010 (Mon) – 11:48 (GMT +2)

At this time last weekend Anthony, Hannah, Diane, Jacquie and I were completely focused on the objective of trying to stay cool, which proved quite elusive. We headed out from Malamulo at around 6:45 Friday morning when we caught a minibus to Blantyre. Once reaching the Limbe (a suburb of Blantyre) bus stop we changed to a large bus to take us up to Liwonde. We all piled into the bus where we all sat in the very back row and proceeded to observe the goings on of the people. Shortly after boarding a pastor stood up and announced that we were going to be having a church service at which point he started leading song service. Everyone joined in the singing and after several songs he launched into a sermon entirely in Chechewa. I don't think in the States anyone would put up with some random pastor leading out a church service on any sort of public transportation.

Once our spiritual dose for the day had been administered we set of on the three hour drive to Liwonde. Every time the bus stopped people would crowd around the windows hawking their wares. At one of the stops in a larger town we purchased some cold drinks, some crackers and a few samosas. The drinks were interesting in that the sellers expected us to drink the whole thing and give the bottle back before leaving the bus stop. If we wanted to keep the bottle we had to pay an extra 30 Kwatcha (~20 cents) for the deposit. Jacquie and Diane didn't feel safe eating the “street food” but Hannah and I quite enjoyed the samosas and I'm not dead yet.

When we arrived in Liwonde we called the Bushman's Baobab – where we were going to stay – and had them come pick us up. We were a bit surprised - some less pleasantly than others – when they arrived in a safari jeep thing (a very technical term) with no roof and a transmission system that had seen many better days. But it was nice being in the open air as we drove to the camp which was located in a small, rarely visited, section of nowhere. On the way we picked up a guy who we later found out was the owner and also discovered to be quite eccentric. He was white Malawian whose family had been in Malawi for 7 or 8 generations. He also drank from sunrise till long after sunset and chain smoked worse than about anybody I've seen. But he did have many interesting stories and had traveled quite extensively, he also knew each of the elephants in the herds that came by the camp by name.

Shortly after we arrived, once we had put our stuff in our sleeping quarters, we all piled back onto the safari vehicle to drive over to where we would be having a canoe safari. We started out in a shallow swampy area, polled through tall grass for several minutes and then broke out into the river. We saw around a dozen hippos, a bunch of impala, water bucks, various large birds and, when we got back to our starting point, a whole herd of elephants. That evening we chilled at the camp - although “chilled” might not be the right word considering the deathly heat. After trying to get to sleep for an hour or so Diane, Jacquie and I temporarily gave up and went out to sit in the common area where it was breezy. The owner was still up and he came over – much to the dismay of the girls – and started talking up a storm whilst knocking back a few beers and going through a cigarette every few minutes. After awhile the girls got fed up with him and went back to the dorm. I ended up staying out and talking with him till 2 am mostly about world politics and related issues. His ability to argue rationally and usefully declined through the night as his blood alcohol level increased. I finally got to sleep for a couple hours before getting up for our safari drive at 6am. The drive was decent, the main problem was that the transmission system on the vehicle kept getting stuck so the driver wasn't able to stop when we wanted to get pictures. The rest of the day we spent most of our energy trying to keep cool. Jacquie had somewhat of a cultural shock breakdown. In the afternoon we ended up sitting in a circle taking turns spraying each other down with a hose. That night we all showered with our cloths on and went to bed wet which was amazingly helpful for getting to sleep. Sunday morning after breakfast we headed back to town where all of us except Hannah caught the bus back to Blantyre. Hannah parted ways to head to the lake before heading back to England.

The bus ride back was interesting. At one point someone got in with a very large box of fish which smelled quite potent. In Blantyre we caught a minibus going to Makwasa. Diane wasn't able to sit in the front this time and she had a rather unpleasant ride back dealing with a bad case of claustrophobia. We arrived back at Malamulo in the early afternoon and just relaxed for the rest of the day.